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Petersham vs Grosgrain: What’s the Difference?

When exploring the world of ribbons, particularly in millinery, the term “Petersham” often arises - sometimes interchangeably with “Grosgrain.” However, after reviewing multiple sources and drawing on industry knowledge, we’ve found that while these ribbons may appear similar at first glance, they are in fact quite distinct.

As with any historical reference, there are varying accounts of how the term “Petersham” originated. Here are two of the most common explanations we’ve come across:


Two Stories of Origin

Story 1:
“Petersham” is said to be named after 18th-century English nobleman Viscount Petersham, who developed an overcoat and breeches made from a heavy woollen cloth with a rounded nap surface.
(Source: Wikipedia)

Story 2:
Alternatively, some believe Petersham ribbon was first produced by a company called Panda, and named after the town of Petersham where it was originally manufactured - rather than after the product itself.

We leave the choice of which story to accept up to our readers — both accounts are widely cited. The more important discussion, however, lies in understanding how Petersham differs from Grosgrain.


What is Petersham Ribbon?

  • Scalloped edge

  • Ridged texture created through a specific weaving process

  • Softer and more flexible than standard grosgrain

  • Malleable and shapeable - can be curved with steam

  • Typically made from Rayon, Cotton, or Viscose

Petersham is woven in such a way that it responds beautifully to steaming, allowing it to curve and hold shape. This makes it ideal for millinery applications, such as finishing hat brims, where a smooth, wrinkle-free edge is essential. Traditional flat ribbons cannot achieve this effect without puckering or bunching.

We also came across a description from a U.S. fabric house that captures the sentiment perfectly:

"Petersham ribbon, when used as a facing or support, is like a gift from the sewing gods! It kind of looks like regular grosgrain ribbon but its flexible picot edge allows you to shape it with an iron to curve and conform to your project - which grosgrain will not do."


What is Grosgrain Ribbon?

  • Straight, finished edge

  • Corded texture due to the tightly woven weft

  • Typically stiff and structured

  • Made from Polyester, Nylon, or blends

  • Often has a slight sheen

  • Does not curve - not suitable for shaped edges

Grosgrain is more rigid, making it ideal for use with structured fabrics or decorative accents where a flat finish is desired.


A Note on “Millinery Grosgrain”

There is also a ribbon sometimes referred to as “Millinery Grosgrain,” which shares similarities with Petersham:

  • Usually a cotton/rayon blend (50/50)

  • Flexible edges, allowing it to be curved with steam

  • Used for hat trims, sweatbands, headbands, and cockades

However, not all ribbons marketed under this name are suitable for millinery. For instance, some acetate versions (often made in the USA) wrinkle easily when steamed and do not hold shape well, making them less ideal for hats.


Final Thoughts

There is ongoing debate in the sewing and millinery communities over whether Petersham and Grosgrain are the same. Based on our research and experience, we believe they serve very different functions, especially when it comes to shaping and structure.

That said, if you've found a ribbon that works well for your project — regardless of its name — we encourage you to continue using what performs best for your needs.

At House of Adorn, we strive to provide accurate information and quality materials to support your creative work. If you ever need guidance in selecting the right ribbon for your project, our team is always happy to help.

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